Costume Party: The Musketeers, Part 7

So, here it is.  The final piece of the Musketeer costumes. . . and perhaps the trickiest.  You will have to forgive my pictures.  I just don't have it in me to make a new hat to take pictures for the tutorial, so I used our old hats.  Sorry!  Hope it is still clear enough.

Materials Needed:

1 yard Peltex extra-stiff double-sided fusible interfacing (HAS to be the stiffest you can find!)

1.5 yards of satin

1 yard narrow gold trim

2/3 yard wide gold trim

1 large pink ostrich feather ***

1 pkg. matching extra wide double fold bias tape

craft glue

(Either of these will work . . .)

***  For the feather:  I found mine on Etsy from Plumule and/or Lady Jade . 

The first thing we need to do is draft a pattern to fit your little Musketeer.  Measure around the head of your little one, just like they used to do at the doctor when they were little babies.

The brim should be drafted as shown in the picture below:

The inner circle needs to be large enough for your kiddo's head.  Use your measurement and add about 1/2 to 1 inch to the circumference.  For my 5 year old, the above measurements fit her, but she is pretty petite.  Adjust as needed.

The very top of the hat should be about 1 inch smaller in circumference than the inner brim ring (about 17 inches).  A good way to draft this part of the pattern is to cut out the brim pattern, leaving the inner circle intact, trim it down about a quarter of an inch all the way around and there you have it.

Okay, the hardest part to draw is the crown. 

I would suggest making each of these pieces in cardstock, taping it together and trying it on your little one to make sure you have an okay fit and that your pieces will fit together well.

Once you have a good pattern, use the pattern to cut out the stiff interfacing, one of each piece.

Follow the instuctions that come with your interfacing to cover each piece on both sides with your satin.  Now, if you can't find the fusible interfacing, you can also use spray adhesive to attach the satin to the interfacing. 

Just be forewarned that sometime it does create blotches on the satin that don't come out.

Okay, and the important part-- You need to leave some extra fabric around the edges of the pieces.

Iron or use your spray adhesive to attach the fabric to one side of your interfacing piece.

Then cover and adhere the other side with another piece of satin that is larger than the interfacing piece.

Trim the fabric so that there is just about 1 inch around all sides of your interfacing.

Finish each of the three pieces this way. 

Okay, now the pieces are ready to be sewn together.

 

I used my rolled hem edge to finish the edge around the brim.  If you don't have that ability, it may work to put bias tape around the entire rim.  You could sew it in place or glue it.  I haven't tried it, but I assume it would work.  And if you do decide to do it that way, you will want to trim the fabric to the edge of the interfacing around the outer edge of the brim.

Add your narrow gold trim to the top edge of the brim of the hat.

Sew the two ends of your crown together using a 1/4 inch seam (don't use anymore or it won't fit!).  Hand sew the top of the hat to the top edge of your crown.   I know. . . I know. . . hand sewing is not my favorite thing either, but I just was unable to get it together smoothly any other way-- and believe me, I tried!

Hand sew the brim to the crown, keeping your raw edges inside the hat. 

My hand-sewn seam did not look that great, so I glued bias tape around the inner edge of the brim/crown seam.

Glue the wide gold trim at the bottom of the crown, right at the edge of the brim.  Have your ends meet on the side you plan to attach your feather.

Glue and/or sew the end of the feather just under the gold trim where your ends meet.

On the same side as the feather, attach the edge of the brim to the crown of the hat, so that it bows out slightly and has a true Musketeer feel to it.

Whew! 

And that is it.  We are all done.  If you made it through all seven pieces, three cheers for you!  I would love to see a picture. . .

Costume Party: The Musketeers, Part 6

The boots-- they totally finish the outfit, don't you think?  And really, it is not too hard to make your own.

Materials needed:

Pair of ballet flats that fit your little Musketeer

3 yards of gold shoes laces trim

satin scraps to match (optional)

scraps of Peltex extra stiff interfacing

(you will need a yard for the hat-- scraps from that work just fine)

a pair of old knee high socks

approximately 30 gold eyelets and tools to set

at LEAST 1 roll of Duck tape in matching color (I have found them at Wal-Mart, Target, Home Depot, etc.)

And you are going to need your little Musketeer for part of the construction process

Getting Started:

First we are going to make the cuff of the boot.  This made using the Peltex interfacing.  You need two pieces that look like this:

The inner curve should measure about 2 inches short of your child's calf circumference.  It should be about 4 inches wide.

This needs to be covered with fabric.  I used double-sided fusible interfacing, ironed satin on both sides according to the directions on the interfacing then used my rolled hem edge to finish the two sides and the outside curve.  You need to leave a little extra fabric on the inner curve, about an inch or two.  If you would rather, you can also just use your Duck tape to cover the cuffs. Again, just make sure that you leave a little extra tape on the inner curve, like so:

Now we are ready to start constructing the boot.  You will need your little Musketeer in a standing position.  First put on the flats.

If your flats have a little strap like ours, cut it off first.

Next, put the sock OVER the shoe, up to a few inches below the knee.

Tape the cuff on to the top of the sock, as shown in the picture:

Use the excess from the inner curve to tape it to the sock.  It will fold down after you finish the boot. 

Start covering the rest of the sock with the Duck tape.  Use short pieces, about 10 inches.  It's just like wrapping an ankle, if you have ever done that before.

Make sure you cover the entire sock.  You will also want to add at least one extra layer.  The more layers you have, the sturdier the boot.

When you are satisfied with your taping, cut the boot off.  Of course you will want to do this with extreme caution.  I suggest you use surgical scissors, like these:

They will of course be the safest way.  Cut straight down the front from the top of the boot to the edge of the ballet flat.

Now we are going to finish all the exposed edges.  Tape the inside top edge where the cuff attaches to the boot.  (I also sew one line across in the same place to secure the cuff.  My needle gets a little sticky from the tape, but otherwise, it works great!)

 

Put a strip along each cut edge as well. 

And just about there!  Now we are adding eyelets.

Measure along the cut edges of the boot, marking where you want the eyelets.  I usually have about 7 per side, 14 per boot, 28 total. 

Using your little eyelet tool, put holes in each of your marks.  Insert the eyelets.

Add your gold lacing and you are all set to go.

I will hopefully have the hat tutorial up by next week.  Fingers crossed. . .

Costume Party: The Musketeers, Part 5

Hey there! 

Sorry it's been a while. . .

But here you have it!  Another piece of the Musketeer Costume. 

Before I start, a couple of quick notes: 

***First, the sizing on all the pieces is for a size 5, approximately.  To make smaller or larger sizes, you will have to adjust the measurements.*** 

***Also, while I enjoy making semi-elaborate costumes, they are just costumes and often I simplify or cut corners to make the process faster or easier.  My justification being that they will really only being wearing the thing once, maybe twice. . . why make it harder than it has to be?  So, if you are a perfectionist-- I apologize in advance!  ;0)***

The Corset:

Materials:

1/4 yard of pink satin

scraps of interfacing

10 large eyelets (1/4")

26 inches of gold braid trim (found in the by-the-yard trim section at Jo-Anns)

1 yard gold shoelace-style trim (found in the by-the-yard trim section at Jo-Anns)

elastic thread for shirring

Cutting:

Using a rotary cutter, cut a strip measuring 7 inches by width of fabric.  Cut your 7 inch strip into the following pieces:

1 piece- 7 inches by 15 inches

4 pieces- 7 inches by 6 inches

Cut 2 pieces of interfacing to measure 7 inches by 2 inches.

Sewing:

The corset is made with three pieces:  there will be two front panels that are lined and one back piece that will be shirred. 

The front panels are made with your 4, 7 inch by 6 inch pieces.  Take two of the pieces and place them wrong sides together with the interfacing piece in between the two pieces, along one of the 7 inch sides. 

Pin together carefully.  Using a rolled hem edge, finish the edges around the 6 inch sides and the 7 inch side with the interfacing.

 (Ironing optional!  ;0)

Okay, for those of you that do not have a rolled hem edge on your serger, no problem!  Just sew togther with right sides together on your sewing machine and turn right side out and topstitch around the same three edges as listed above.  And there you are-- right back on track!

To attach the gold braid, pin in place, approximately 1.5 inches from the top and interfaced edge.  Pin into place and sew, turning under right at the bottom edge to give it a finished look.

 Make sure that as you add the trim to the second front panel, you place it in mirror image to the first.

And now we come to my least favorite part-- the eyelets.  I have made this costume 10 times over the past year and I still don't feel like I have mastered the eyelet.  I am starting to wonder if I have wrong tool for the brand of eyelets or something like that. . .  Anyway, I prefer the larger eyelets to the tiny ones.  The larger style eyelets have a piece that fits on the front and one on the back, making a very smooth edge all the way through.  The tiny eyelets leave a rough edge on the back that seems to snag on everything.  But really it is your choice. 

Mark the spots where you want your eyelets.  I place 5 on each panel, with the first eyelet about 1/2 inch from the top and the bottom eyelet about 1/2 inch from the bottom.  Use a little sewing gauge thinger-ma-bobber to find the points where you want your eyelets to sit.  And whatever you do, DON'T use a dark blue pen to mark your fabric!  (Been there, done that!) 

Now use your eyelet tool to make holes where you have marked.

Mine does not work very good on the satin fabric, so I usually punch the fabric and then use my tiny scissors to make the hole bigger.  USE EXTREME CAUTION when doing this!  You cut too far and you will be making a whole new panel.  Not fun.

Insert the eyelets into the holes you have made and use your tool to set into place.  If you are using the bigger eyelets, you will notice that some of the eyelets have shorter prongs than some of the others.  The shorter pronged piece goes in the back of the panel and the longer pronged piece goes on the front. 

Place the eyelets in all 10 of your marks.  (5 on each front panel.)

On to the back portion. 

Finish the two long edges in the same way that you finished your front panel edges.  For example, if you used a rolled hem edge on the front panels, use a rolled hem edge on the two long sides of the back portion.

Then shir it.  You will want to shir about every 1/2 inch along the piece.  (I only did a couple of lines to give you the basic idea.  Pretty much I am just sick to death of making the dang thing. . . Your piece will have many more shirred lines.)

If you do not know how to shir, Ruffles and Stuff has a great tutorial that will give you the basics.  If you have never tried-- DO IT!!!  You won't regret it!

Now, sew your pieces together on the unfinished edges.

Finish the edge with your serger or a zigzag stitch and there you are!

Thread the gold lacing through your eyelets, the same way you would lace a tennis shoe (from the bottom up), tie it at the top.

Okay, I just thought of a third note: 

 *** I have had several people leave me comments lately, asking a question.  I am more than happy to answer, but many people still do not have their email address linked to their comments.  IF I DO NOT HAVE YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS LINKED TO YOUR COMMENT OR IN THE COMMENT, I CAN'T REACH YOU!!!  So please don't hate me if I didn't/don't respond to you.  I really do want to . . .***

Okay, that's all!  See you soon!

Costume Party: The Musketeers, Part 4

For those of you just joining us, I am on part 4 of 7 of the Barbie Musketeer Costumes. 

The cape is easy, peasy! 

Materials:

1/3 yard pink satin

1/3 yard gold satin

1/3 yard gold trim

basic sewing supplies

Cutting:

Cut one piece of pink satin and one piece of gold satin measuring 21 inches by 12 inches.

Sewing:

Okay, you have two options here. 

Option 1:  Pin the pink and gold pieces together wrong sides together and use your rolled hem edge to finish the edges all the way around the cape.  Then jump down below to finish.

Option 2:  Pin the pink and gold pieces together right sides together and sew all the way around, leaving a 5 inch opening to turn it right side out.  Press and topstitch around, closing the opening as you go. 

Finishing:

Stitch your gold trim about 1.5 inches from the bottom of the cape (the narrow sides are the top and bottom).  Fold the ends under at the begining and end.

Place a basting stitch about 1/2 inch from the top of the cape and gather slightly.

Using a zigzag stitch, attach to the back neckline of the peasant top.  It should run from one sleeve seam to the other.

And that's it.  Now the easy parts are done.  The trickier parts are yet to come!  ;0)

Costume Party: The Musketeers, Part 3

Part 3, the Top.

Materials needed:

1/2 yard of crushed panne
elastic thread
basic sewing supplies

For the shirt portion of the costume, I used a peasant shirt pattern. I think I have about 3 to choose from. . . If you have one hanging around that is short sleeved, use it to cut out your pieces.

If you don't have one, and you have a little gumption-- try making your own!  It is a simple pattern, with only two main pieces that look like this:

The Body Pattern (front and back)

The Sleeve Pattern (cut 2)

Both the neckline and the bottom of the sleeve need to have a little extra length added to be able to add a gathered effect on it.  Just measure your little musketeer and do a little multiplication.

The long straight lengths on the sleeve should be about 2 times the measurement you get from your little one.

For the horizontal lines on the body, multiply by about 1.5.

Sew the angled sides of the sleeve to the angles on the front and back of the shirt, then sew the side seam from the bottom of the sleeve all the way to the hem of the shirt. 

Now all you have to do is finish the edges.  I used my rolled hem edge on my serger.  It created a kind of lettuce edge, because the panne is stretchy.  Then I shirred three lines around the bottom of the sleeves and three lines around the neckline. 

If you don't know how to shir, Ruffles and Stuff has a great tutorial here.

You can also just make a casing at the neckline and sleeve hem and thread elastic through, if you prefer.

And that is it! 


Coming soon:  The Musketeer Cape!

Costume Party: The Musketeers, Part 2

Part 2, The Pettiskirt

This part is almost exactly like Part 1, except we are adding a ruffle to it.

(Remember, I will be making the tutorials in size 5T. You can add a little length for older kids or shorten for smaller sizes.)

Materials needed:

 

1 yard of white cotton fabric (or nice muslin)

approx. 2/3 yard of 1 inch wide elastic

basic sewing supplies

 

Cutting:

Cut two strips of fabric 9 inches by width of fabric (approx. 44") for the main skirt piece. Cut one strip of fabric 6 inches by 30 inches long. Cut four strips 2.5 inches by width of fabric for bottom ruffle.

 

Sewing:

 

Sew the four ruffle pieces together and hem the bottom or finish with a rolled hem edge.

 

With right sides together, stitch the short ends together. Gather the top of the ruffle.

Sew the two skirt pieces together on the short ends.  Attach the ruffle to the bottom of the skirt portion.

Now, just jump on over to Part 1 and finish the pettiskirt exactly like the skirt.